Sunday, November 18, 2018

Swan Cygnet 260 repair

This Swan Cygnet 260 was submitted to the Cly Institute for repair.  It had no SSB modulation and the gain control did not work.  The Model 260 came out on the market in 1969 and can be operated from AC or DC without any additional components.  It is a self contained rig boasting SSB and CW operation in a heavy but small package.

This particular radio was very well cared for.  The case is in nice shape and it was relatively clean inside.  The first thing that was done was to check the tubes.  All the tubes were in good condition.  The Audio Input preamp 12BA6 was the only one that was beyond what I consider "weak" and was consequently replaced.

The gain control was removed and cleaned.  The carbon track was filthy and required cleaning for smooth uninterrupted operation.  However, this was not the problem.  The 5uF capacitor that goes between the wiper and ground C1613 was shorted.  This was easily replaced with a modern capacitor.

The PA Load adjust knob did not turn the capacitor.  The coupling was a piece of 1/4" fuel hose.  That hose had disintegrated.  The easiest fix was another piece of fuel hose, but this time instead of trying to glue it to the shafts, I made some crimp clamps out of aluminum tubing.

There had apparently been some arcing on the PA Tune capacitor.  This caused the plates to scrape against one another as the knob was turned.  This was rectified by filing off the arced metal and bending the capacitor plates back into alignment.

The lack of audio modulation was another matter.  One of the wires was off inside the microphone, so that was repaired properly with shrink tube rather than duct tape.  Figuring that this was all the issues solved, we plugged it in and tried it out.

Success was not yet obtained.  There was still no modulation.  So the microphone was opened up again and investigated.  A small LM358 audio amp that I keep in the desk drawer is perfect for use as a signal tracer.  The crystal microphone itself ended up being the problem.  It wouldn't produce any output, and it was open-circuit.


Nothing could be done to make it any worse, so the foil part of the element was opened like a tin-can exposing the real issue.  The mic must have been dropped at some point, which broke the wires from the element.  These flat "wires" are a strange material that resists solder, so they had to be crimped in place.  Some small scraps of resistor leads were used to crimp around the delicate flat wires out of the crystal element, and then soldered to the output leads.  This procedure was not at all easy, but finally successful in that the mic then produced output into the test amplifier.  The foil was straightened back out and hot-glued back in place along the edge.  The repair looked worse than it really was and actually sounded fine.  The SDR was set up and modulation was finally obtained.  A quick adjustment of the PA Bias was required before putting the case back on.  Even though the output wasn't a full 260 watts, it could probably be attributed to the age of the final tube.



Wednesday, November 7, 2018

New Life for Yaesu VX-1R

I can't claim credit for this hot tip.  I found this searching the internet for replacement batteries for the Yaesu VX-1R.

I bought the VX-1R years ago right after I got my license.  It is a sub-miniature dual band transceiver with wide band receive.  It is perfect for stuffing in your shirt pocket at a hamfest to keep in touch with your buddies.  The problem is that the battery doesn't last very long with a 700mAh rating, and new batteries are rather expensive.

The Trustfire 14650 battery (that's 14mm in diameter and 650mm long if you didn't know) are a perfect fit.  They are nearly the exact length of the original FNB-52LI, and maybe just a little shorter.  Shorter is better than longer.  To compensate for this I put a small donut magnet on the positive terminal of the battery.  It allows the door to close with enough positive pressure that it doesn't fall open as it would without enough pressure on it.

For some reason the 14650 battery isn't as easy to obtain as other cells.  I found them at FastTech for $6.57 for a pack of 2 which have a PCB (protected) as well.  That's with 1600mAh capacity which is over double the original capacity, and if the first one runs out on a rag chew, I can just pop the other one in.


So the question is, "Can I charge these cells inside the VX-1R?"  Remember the VX-1R only charges the internal battery when the transceiver is turned off.  There is a circuit board inside the original Yaesu battery.  Checking the spring terminal inside the battery compartment shows that when the charger is plugged into the radio there is 6 volts on the terminals of the battery.  It will not work to charge the battery without the battery management circuit.

The original battery capacity is so low, it doesn't make sense to preserve the original battery.  The convenience of having a modern battery with greater capacity is obvious.  The solution was clear.  The original battery must be removed from the case and the new one inserted in its place.  Since I have no spot welder for this task, it must be soldered.  Solder sticks best to battery terminals that have a rough surface.  This is accomplished with an engraving tool gently across the terminals.  With a blazing hot soldering, solder and flux is applied QUICKLY to provide a good contact patch to sweat the terminals on without overheating the battery itself.


There you have it.  New and longer life for the sub-miniature VX-1R.  Catch you on AllStarLink.

73

de N3FIX